By Elena Kosolapova
Azeri Observer Staff Writer
Our trip to Croatia unfolded under the gentle spell of an Indian summer, with warm sun, clear skies, and golden light stretching across our days. Just before our arrival, a cold wave had brushed the land, tinting the forests rich shades of amber, crimson, and gold. As we drove from Zagreb to the Adriatic coast, the colorful hills and valleys seemed like a living painting. I came to regret not staying in the capital a little longer to savor those autumn landscapes—a plan I promised myself for next time.
This time, our destination was Istria, a sun-drenched peninsula of white-topped hills, vineyards, olive groves, and turquoise sea. Yet Istria’s charm does not just derive from its natural offerings. In the city of Pula, our guide told us that four generations of her family had lived in the same home, yet each was born in a different country—her grandfather in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, her father in Italy, she herself in Yugoslavia, and her daughter in Croatia. “This is the story of many Istrian families,” she said with a smile. Through the centuries, this land has belonged to many, including the Roman Empire, the Goths, the Byzantines, the Langobards, the Franks, the Slavs, the Holy Roman Empire, Aquileia, the Venetians, and even Napoleon’s forces. Each culture left its trace upon Istria’s soul, shaping its character into something uniquely rich and multifaceted. Today, Italian and Croatian intertwine here seamlessly. Street signs appear in both languages, Venetian architecture graces the towns, and Italian flags still flutter beside Croatian ones. This is not a sign of division but a tribute to the region’s layered history, where cultures have blended into one harmonious identity.
Throughout this ever-changing history, there is also constancy. In every village and coastal town, we met people who spoke with quiet pride of their family businesses—restaurants, wineries, farms, olive mills, and inns—passed down for a century or more. When something is nurtured with patience and love across generations, perfection naturally ripens. That blend of change and continuity, history and heart, is what makes Istria a captivating place that stays with every traveler long after they leave.
Opatija: The Elegant Cradle of Croatian Tourism
Our journey began in Opatija, the elegant cradle of Croatian tourism and the country’s very first seaside resort. Until the mid-nineteenth century, it was merely a quiet fishing village, but visionary investors transformed it into the most fashionable destination on the Adriatic. During the golden age of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Opatija became a playground for emperors and aristocrats such as Emperor Franz Joseph, his beloved Empress Sisi, and royal guests from across Europe. As a climatic health resort, it earned fame as the empire’s first marine spa, where sea air and sophistication met in perfect harmony. A railway line from Vienna soon followed, making Opatija accessible to the noble elite. Curiously, even though a train ticket then cost several times more than a week’s stay at one of its fine hotels, travelers remained eager to bask in its charm. Today, Opatija still carries the unmistakable spirit of the Austro-Hungarian era, with grand Art Nouveau villas and palatial hotels standing proudly along the shore, their façades glimmering with old-world grace. Classical fountains burble in leafy gardens planted with exotic trees, while the ten-kilometer promenade, softly illuminated at night, stretches beside immaculate beaches. Sheltered by mountains, Opatija enjoys a mild climate year-round—another reason why it continues to enchant visitors in every season.
The twenty-first century has left its subtle mark through a blend contemporary design and timeless elegance. We stayed at the modern Boutique & Design Hotel Navis, perched prominently on a rock above the sea. The glass walls of my room opened to a sublime view of the tranquil bay dotted with sailboats. Mornings began with sunlight dancing on the water; afternoons led us down the cliffs to the hotel’s private beach; and evenings ended with a glass of fine Croatian wine on the balcony as the waves whispered softly against the stones -a melody as eternal as Opatija itself.
Opatija. Photo by Hrvoje Serdar
Cres and Lošinj: Islands of Serenity
Our next destination was the island of Cres, where time seems to move more slowly and nature breathes in its purest form. To reach it, we boarded a ferry—a small adventure of its own. The vessel carried cars, buses, and passengers on a wide-open deck where, with the soft wind in our hair and the glimmering Adriatic surrounding us, we savored the half-hour voyage as part of the journey’s reward. Cres welcomes visitors with a simple motto: “No stress on Cres.” Indeed, the moment you set foot on the island, calmness seeps into your soul. The scent of pine forests and wild herbs fill the air, vibrant flowers line the paths, and sun-drenched beaches stretch along crystal-clear waters that shimmer like liquid glass. Every sight and smell seemed to wash away any feelings of haste, replacing them with pure serenity. We could not resist trying the island’s pride, the Cres lamb, often named among the finest in the world. Its delicate flavor comes from free-roaming flocks grazing on aromatic herbs, a diet that imbues the meat with remarkable tenderness and fragrance. Croatia, I realized, is a true paradise for food lovers; everything we tasted—from freshly caught seafood to pršut, cheeses, and even bread dipped in golden olive oil—carried the essence of purity and freshness. Yet it was the Cres lamb that left the most unforgettable impression, a harmony of flavor that embodied the island’s sun, soil, and sea. But Cres is not only about nature and cuisine; it is also about creativity. We visited RUTA Wool & Design, the workshop of Vesna Jakić, who transforms discarded Cres sheep wool into delicate felt artworks and certified souvenirs. Inspired by Turkic traditions, her felting techniques add yet another layer to the island’s multicultural soul. Today, her workshops attract both children and adults, offering them not just art but a story that forms a link between past and present.
Cres. Photo by Goran Razic
From Cres, a small bridge led us to its neighbor Lošinj, blessed with over 200 sunny days a year. We stayed at the Hotel Bellevue, set among centuries-old pine trees at the water’s edge. The first hotel on this spot opened in the late nineteenth century, drawing Viennese aristocrats seeking rest and healing in Lošinj’s mild climate. Today, Bellevue continues that tradition in its own elegant way, blending refined modern design with natural materials, exquisite cuisine, and wellness treatments that mirror the island’s tranquil spirit. Our days were defined by sunlit hours on the hotel’s private beach and quiet moments inhaling the fragrant sea air. Yet one experience on Lošinj stood apart: the Museum of Apoxyomenos, dedicated to a single, breathtaking masterpiece. Its bronze statue of a young Greek athlete had spent nearly two thousand years submerged in the sea until it was discovered by chance in 1997 by a diver. The statue took six painstaking years to restore before it was displayed in major museums around the world and finally returned to its island home. The museum itself is a marvel—immersive, sensory, and poetic—and has received an international prize for its innovative approach. As I stood just an arm’s length away from the Apoxyomenos, I felt a quiet awe. This sculpture, shaped by hands that lived before Christ, had outlasted empires, kings, and centuries. It stood there, timeless and serene, reminding me that civilizations may rise and fade, but true beauty never truly disappears.
The ancient Greek sculpture of Apoxiomen, IV B.C., from Losinj.
Truffles and Wine: Istria’s Culinary Treasures
Croatia—especially the Istrian Peninsula—is a true paradise for truffle lovers. This fertile land ranks among the world’s top truffle regions due to its perfect mix of soil, climate, and forest vegetation. Beneath the roots of ancient oaks grow several kinds of truffles, including the rare and aromatic white truffle, worth up to $3,000 per kilogram. Their price reflects their elusiveness; they cannot be cultivated and can only be found underground with the help of trained dogs or pigs. Istria offered us a chance not only to taste truffles but also to hunt for them. We visited the Karlić Family Estate, which has been hunting truffles for more than half a century. After a warm greeting and a short introduction, we put on rubber boots and set off into the forest with our guide and two eager dogs. For nearly an hour, we wandered between trees until one dog began to dig—the signal for which we had been waiting. Our guide quickly unearthed a small, knobby treasure. Our very own truffle! Thankfully, we didn’t have to rely on our modest find for dinner. Back at the estate, we enjoyed a truffle-themed meal, each dish delicately infused with its rich, earthy aroma. Before leaving, we stopped by their shop filled with truffle oils, cheeses, and spreads—irresistible souvenirs of Istria’s culinary soul.
Truffle. Photo by Ivo Biocina
On the way back, we visited the Kozlović Winery, a stunning estate nestled among rolling hills and sunlit vineyards. During the tour, we explored the production facilities and ancient cellars, learning about local winemaking traditions and the family’s dedication to sustainable, organic viticulture. Every step of the process, from vine to bottle, is guided by harmony with nature and a commitment to preserving the region’s biodiversity. The experience concluded with a wine tasting on the terrace, a sleek deck cantilevered over the vineyards. With each sip of crisp Malvazija, we gazed over the green valleys below. It was one of those rare moments when every sense—taste, scent, sight, and soul—are aligned and you feel completely immersed in the gentle, golden beauty of Istria.
Photo by Maja Danica Pecanic
Brijuni National Park: History and Harmony
One of the most popular excursions from Pula leads to the enchanting Brijuni National Park—a constellation of fourteen islands woven together by a tapestry of lush landscapes and turquoise shores. Naturally, we could not miss the chance to visit this serene haven at the intersection of history and nature. The rocks here perfectly preserved dinosaur footprints that remind visitors that these islands were once home to prehistoric giants. In the nineteenth century, Brijuni became a fashionable retreat for European aristocracy, and later, it transformed into the private residence of Josip Broz Tito in the twentieth century. Here, the Yugoslav leader hosted nearly a hundred world leaders and film icons like Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, and Sophia Loren. Within these tranquil islands, the foundations of the Non-Aligned Movement were laid—an idea that still resonates in global politics today. We visited Tito’s museum, where decades of his leadership and international influence are preserved in photographs and documents. In Istria, Tito is remembered as a hero who led the resistance against Italian fascists during World War II, who placed Yugoslavia firmly on the world map, and who is credited as ensuring the region belongs to Croatia. Streets and squares bear his name, and his portrait still evokes respect. Yet beyond these borders, the world remembers him as a dictator. History, after all, is rarely written in black and white, and who can tell how today’s leaders will be judged a century from now? Today, Brijuni is peaceful—home to emerald woods, secluded villas, Croatia’s oldest golf course, and a Safari Park with native and exotic animals like zebras, llamas, ostriches, and even an Indian elephant. A ride in electric golf carts along the rocky coast, with pine and sea in the air, made Brijuni feel like a location in a dream, where history sleeps gently beneath rustling trees and the rhythm of the waves.
Brijuni National Park. Photo by Zoran Jelaca
Rovinj and Pula: Timeless Coastal Beauty
Our journey next took us to Rovinj, a city that effortlessly steals the hearts of all who visit the Istrian Peninsula. Rising gracefully from the sea, this charming town feels almost dreamlike, made up of a maze of cobbled streets, Mediterranean façades, and ivy-draped walls that seem to belong to another time. At its heart stands the Church of St. Euphemia, crowning the hill with its elegant bell tower that gazes over the old rooftops and the glittering Adriatic. Down below, the harbor hums with gentle life—fishermen mending their nets, boats rocking on the waves, cafés spilling out onto sunlit terraces. Rovinj is a place to wander without purpose, to lose oneself among art studios, tiny shops, and the quiet beauty that lingers around every corner.
Rovinj. Photo by Julien Duval
From there, our road curved south toward Pula, the largest city in Istria and its ancient soul. Our stay at Park Plaza Histria, set on a peaceful peninsula surrounded by the sea, was a perfect blend of comfort and coastal elegance. The hotel’s terraces opened to endless views of the shimmering Adriatic, and in the evenings, the air carried salt, the scent of pine, and notes of far away music while the sun slipped beneath the horizon in a blaze of amber light. It felt like the ideal refuge after days filled with exploration. Pula itself is a living museum, where modern streets intertwine with Roman stones and everyday life unfolds in the shadow of history. During our city tour, we strolled past the Temple of Augustus, admired the Ancient Roman triumphal Arch of the Sergii, and paused in bustling squares where the past and present quietly converse. Yet nothing compares to the city’s most magnificent landmark, the Amphitheater, known as the Arena of Pula. One of the world’s best-preserved Roman monuments, it stands proudly by the sea, its vast limestone arches still commanding awe. Two thousand years ago, the Arena resounded with the clash of swords and the roar of the crowd as gladiators fought beneath the open sky. Today, the same stones host concerts and performances, filled with light, music, and laughter. Yet as I stood there, I couldn’t help but feel how little human nature has truly changed. Even after two millennia, people continue gathering together to be moved, thrilled, and entertained, yearning for their bread and circuses, still drawn by the timeless rhythm of spectacle and emotion.
The Amphitheater, known as the Arena of Pula. Photo by Ivan Sardi
Labin: Stories Beneath the Surface
Our final stop on the way to Zagreb Airport was the medieval town of Labin, a hilltop gem with narrow cobbled streets and colorful façades that seem to whisper stories of centuries past. Once a Roman settlement, Labin’s old town carries its history gracefully, with every stone and archway holding echoes of those who lived here before. We wandered through charming squares framed by elegant old palaces and picturesque houses. The heart of Labin is its central square, which features a beautifully preserved sixteenth-century loggia and the main town gate of St. Flora, crowned with the town’s coat of arms and the proud Venetian lion, a symbol of centuries of Venetian rule. From the top of the hill, the view stretched toward the distant sea and green valleys below—a sight that seemed more painted than real. As we explored further, we stumbled upon a cannon from the Austrian period, standing silently as if still guarding the town, as well as countless other relics that speak of Labin’s layered past. Yet beneath its romantic façade lies another, less shimmering chapter of the town’s history. In the twentieth century, Labin was a bustling mining center, its people earning their livelihood deep underground. Today, the mines are long closed, and the town thrives on art, culture, and tourism. Still, the Labin Town Museum keeps that industrial heritage alive, allowing visitors to descend into a miniature coal mine, a faithful reconstruction of the tunnels where miners once toiled. Stepping into the narrow, dimly lit passage, the air thick and still, I felt the weight of the earth above me. It was hard to imagine spending whole days in such darkness, without a glimpse of the sky. When I finally emerged back into the sunlight, the fresh air felt almost sacred. At that moment, I silently thanked God for the work I do—for a life filled with light and words, not coal and dust.
Labin. Photo by Ivo Biocina
At the Journey’s End
The motto of Croatia is “Full of Life.” Even a single week here is enough to understand how resoundingly this rings true. In Croatia, every moment feels amplified, vibrant, and alive. Whether I was marveling at nature’s untouched beauty, tracing my fingers along the timeworn stones of ancient monuments, savoring a meal paired with local wine or a sip of fragrant fruit brandy, or pausing to greet one of the many beloved cats that wander through Croatian towns, I felt the same quiet realization that life is a beautiful gift meant to be fully lived and deeply enjoyed.
Photos Source: Croatian National Tourist Board
